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Canada and the Rockies
by Hilary Davidson

For several years relatives of mine had been asking us to go and see them in Prince Albert, Canada. This is off the beaten track of the tourist, so we decided if we went we would make it worthwhile. By chance an email advertised Alaskan cruises from £283 for seven nights (vacationstogo.com). We actually paid £400 each, which was for an outside cabin (or stateroom as the Americans call them), well worth it for the views. One hidden cost is the tips taken directly from your credit card at $10 American dollars per person per day. Needless to say we did not leave any other tips.

A friend at work told me about Zoom Canadian Airlines (flyzoom.com). It is a low cost airline, but still gives good service including food, as it is a long flight. We flew into Vancouver and out of Calgary. We also paid for premium seats (a first for us) because it was only £79 each, each way extra. The economy flight was £208 each, each way, plus of course all the taxes. By flying premium we had 36 inches leg room, which meant you could stretch your feet right out. There was an increased luggage allowance of 30kg instead of 20kg. We also had a reduced check-in time and a separate check-in desk.

One problem we had with Canada is that it is difficult to hire a car in one place and leave it at another. To do this there is an extra fee of about $200 Canadian dollars (2 dollars to the pound approx). We eventually arranged the holiday so that we picked up and dropped the car in Calgary.

We decided to take The Rocky Mountaineer train from Vancouver to Calgary. I booked everything direct on the Internet, except the train. This was cheaper to book through an English agent, than direct with the train because the tax was deducted.

Each state has its own tax (different amounts each state) plus the government tax. This is added at the till, always a surprise when you buy something until you get used to it. You can claim the government tax back for any bill over $50. We forgot to get the receipt stamped at the airport for the one purchase we had made totalling over $50. However, we were able to send all our receipts for accommodation without them being stamped. You should be able to claim $5 per night.

The address and accompanying form can be found on the Internet or on envelopes picked up in Canada with tourist leaflets. Only use the official envelopes as many others are available and they charge for their service. We have sent ours off, but haven't had a reply yet.

We stayed in five different accommodations, all of which I found on the Internet and booked direct. I was particularly keen to find places with an element of self-catering. We paid approximately £35-45 per night per room.

So after months of preparation and reading, acres of paper work, we set off on 26 April (my birthday, the longest ever, 32 hours due to the time change), for Vancouver. We had four nights there before embarking on the cruise.

Vancouver turned out to be very wide spread, which made journeys time consuming. I had deliberately booked a hotel near the sky train, which ran every few minutes, mostly overhead. However it is not extensive, and only goes on one route into downtown. Buses are needed if you go anywhere else. We walked the centre, including Chinatown where there is a beautiful Chinese garden, Gastown the old part of Vancouver with a steam clock and the area around Canada Place where the ships depart. Here there are expensive shops, in very grand buildings. Good to look around but too expensive for us. We continued to Robson Street the main shopping centre. Perhaps our view was clouded by the torrential rain falling on us, but we found it uninspiring. However we had an interesting lunch in the small indoor market, cheap and a mixture of Greek and Iranian food. It was very good.

As the rain slowed we walked to Stanley Park, which is huge. We only intended to explore the nearest bit, but got lost and were very glad to find a bus to take us back to our hotel, which took nearly an hour. We visited the tower in the Harbour Centre, where you can return at night with the same ticket, to enjoy the view of the city lights.

Two much advertised attractions of Vancouver are Grouse Mountain and Capilano Suspension bridge. Both are expensive at over $30 each. The mountain we decided to miss as we were later going to the Rockies.

Instead of going to Capilano we went to Lynn Canyon Park nearby. This is free and less crowded. It still has a rocking suspension bridge and paths around the canyon. To get there we took the sky train to the waterfront, then the seabus to the North Shore. From there, we took a bus to Lynn Canyon. North Shore is obviously the wealthy area of Vancouver as there were beautiful houses and gardens there. We took a picnic though there is a cafe with snacks. We ate in the picnic area, as food should not be consumed in the wild as it attracts the bears. We had a lovely if exhausting day.

Fares on the transport system are simple with one price for each zone. Our long journey to Lynn Canyon covered two zones and cost us $3.25 each. Tickets cover the sky train, buses and seabuses.

Metrotown was billed as the second largest shopping centre in Canada (after Edmonton). We went to have a look, but it is much like any other anywhere in the world, though there were some lovely fountains.

We had a morning free before boarding the ship for the cruise. We took a bus to Queen Elizabeth gardens. It took over half an hour along the same road to reach the gardens. They were well worth visiting with two sunken gardens with flowers and ponds. There was also a large dome (like the Eden project) with orchids, birds a waterfall and the most beautiful flowers.

We returned to the hotel to pick up our cases and get a taxi to the port. After a long wait for American immigration, we were fingerprinted and photographed. I felt like a criminal. At last we were allowed to board the ship Norwegian Wind. The cabin was comfortable with a small bed-settee by the window, and a large bed. It was lovely to sit and watch out of the window. Few cruises provide tea and coffee in the cabin, so I took my travel kettle and tea, coffee and dried milk. It was well used.

The next day at sea, we explored the ship and enjoyed the food. There was choice of eating in the buffet or more formally in the restaurant. We tried and enjoyed both. It took some willpower not to overdo the food!

We were the first ship out in 2006, so had quite a welcome on shore. The shops opened early and gave us many good offers. There were many excursions available, some very expensive, and some only for the very fit and/or brave! We took the simple options. Our first stop Ketchikan we went to Totem Bight, with totems poles and a native house. After that we walked to Creek Street. Wooden houses were built on stilts over the creek. The area used to be the red light district. It was certainly picturesque.

Docked at Juneau, capital of Alaska (I always thought the capital was Anchorage). We went to the Mendenhall glacier. It was beautiful and would have been even more spectacular if it had been sunny instead of pouring with rain. The odd thing we noticed was that local people wandered around in the pouring rain with no umbrellas or macs. They generally wore tracksuits or fleeces, which I would have thought would soon be soaked through. We walked as close as we could to the glacier and went into the information centre where it was at least dry.

The highlight of the trip was to be the Sawyer Glacier. We were told we were to see it that afternoon, two days ahead of schedule. We sailed up Tracey Arm, a kind of fjord with small icebergs floating all around. Some were a beautiful blue, which is highly impacted ice. It was raining and very cold, so we piled on layers of clothes topped off by waterproof ponchos. We armed ourselves with binoculars and cameras, and found a good place to observe. After several hours, and the only wildlife spotted being mountain goats, we were told it was too dark to carry on to see the glacier.

I was so annoyed, as we were supposed to go earlier in the day later in the week, that I wrote to the captain. This time I was told it was not the dark but the icebergs were too dangerous, though I had no explanation as to why we attempted it earlier in the cruise. I was given a bottle of wine, but that was not the point. Later in our holiday we met a couple who had been on the same cruise in August and also missed the glacier. This time they were told it was calving, making it dangerous. I would love to hear from anyone who has succeeded in seeing the glacier. We suspect the boat may not be up to it, but if so it should not be in the brochure.

During the cruise we saw a pod of whales in the distance and some bald eagles in Alaska; I had hoped to see more wildlife.

Our third and last port of call was Skagway. We went on a narrow-gauge railway, which was originally built for the gold miners. We rose 3000 feet and it was snowing hard, and the snow was deep. We went over bridges, ravines and through tunnels; it really was a feat of engineering. Each carriage had an old fashioned black stove for heating and a small area outside, which I loved. I can thoroughly recommend the trip.

In the afternoon we went on a 1927 bus to learn about the history of Skagway. On all our coach trips, drivers were giving the commentary through hand held microphones while driving! It is a good job there is not a great deal of traffic in Alaska. Many towns cannot be accessed by road, including Juneau, only by boat or plane. Nearly all goods are brought up by barge from Seattle.

One evening when we had a day at sea, there was a Chocolate Fest. There were ice and chocolate sculptures, and all sorts of cakes with chocolate. We took many pictures as it was all most cleverly done. We could eat whatever we wanted. Judging by some peoples’ plates, I expect there were a few queasy people next day. We enjoyed fresh strawberries dipped in chocolate.

On disembarkation we returned to the hotel in Vancouver for a further two nights before boarding the Rocky Mountaineer. For the full day we had, we went over to Victoria (capital of British Columbia) on Vancouver Island. It is a difficult trip taking about four hours. We took the sky train to the main bus station, then a one hour coach to the ferry.

The ferry is a beautiful trip through many islands. We saw some seals on the way. After one and a half hours you pick up another coach for a further hour onto Victoria. This can all be booked complete but is not cheap, approximately $80 each way.

Time travelling means sight seeing time is very limited, especially when it took an hour to book our return tickets via Butchart Gardens! We took a taxi to Craigdoch Castle, a beautiful building built in 1890 and furnished in that period. No taxis or buses around for return so we walked back to the waterfront.

We had time to look round the Empress Hotel and the Parliament Buildings. There is freedom to walk at will around these buildings and they are worth seeing. It is much more relaxed than here in England.

On the way back to the ferry we had arranged to visit the famous Butchart Gardens. We had two hours there and needed it to see and enjoy these fabulous gardens. Built in an old quarry to hide it, there are different areas for various types of garden.

The sunken garden is the most spectacular, and the Japanese was a favourite of mine. A short path led to a lovely view of a bay. We finally arrived back at our hotel about 10.30pm. To save time we ate on the ferry; the food was good and not expensive.

Another early morning to catch the Rocky Mountaineer train. There are two classes on the train. The gold class is much more expensive, but you are served hot food and have carriages with glass roofs. However, the scenery remains the same and we travelled red class. The food was cold but was excellent, and we were really well looked after throughout. There is a small open area at the back of each carriage; this was very popular, and my only moan was that it was not sufficient.

The scenery was spectacular, and the track followed the river for most of the time. We watched for wildlife and it was called out if anything was spotted. Everyone wanted to see a bear; on the two occasions a bear was called I was on the opposite side of the carriage and missed it.

Overnight we stayed at a hotel in Kamloops, and boarded the train early next morning again. We enjoyed the scenery again and saw deer, various birds and osprey on nests.

On arrival in Calgary we took a taxi to a hotel near the airport ready to pick up the car the next day. We had been upgraded to a Chevrolet. Roads around Calgary airport are a nightmare to find the correct direction. After a few false moves we got onto the road to Prince Albert, a distance of some 500 miles. On the way we stopped at Drumheller, to see the hoodoos (strange shaped rocks) and the dinosaur museum. More dinosaur remains have been dug up here than anywhere else in the world. We continued on to visit family, finally arriving at 11.45pm.

After five nights in Prince Albert and one night in Wainwright, we drove to Edmonton. As time was limited and we were going to meet some more relatives that evening, we decided to avoid the city centre and go to West Edmonton Mall, billed as the largest mall in the world. I’m not sure if that claim still stands. The shops were pretty standard for a mall, but I did enjoy the many fountains, ice rink, view of the swimming pool, seals in a water park and the Chinese quarter.

After a lovely evening with a cousin and his family, whom I had not seen since we were both in our teens, we went back to the hotel for a night before driving onto Jasper for three nights. Here we had a self-contained studio in a private house.

On the way we had a detour to Miette Hot Springs. They are the hottest in Canada and have to be cooled before people bathe. We went in but were a bit disappointed; it was just like an ordinary swimming pool, but we did have the view of snow-capped mountains.

Next day we made for Athabasca Falls, stopping at viewpoints on the way. These falls are 23 metres high and have the greatest force in Canada. They can be viewed from various points and you get very wet if you stand near enough. They were a wonderful sight, creating a rainbow in the sun.

We travelled onto Sunwapta Falls where we ate our picnic. There was a sign through the woods saying two kilometres to the lower falls. These were well worth the walk as there is a series of falls. No one else was there, so we were able to enjoy them all to ourselves.

For our next adventure we went to Maligne Canyon. There are six bridges there but the last two are a long way down and can be visited by car from another direction. We walked to the fourth bridge: quite hard going, but the views of the falls and rapids were great. If you don’t wish to walk too far the first two bridges are worth visiting. At the first bridge there is a 38 metre deep waterfall which runs down narrow channels carved out by the water. We went onto Maligne Lake, but it started to rain hard and it was getting late so we returned to our accommodation.

The highlight of the trip was travelling the Icefields Parkway. This road stretches from Jasper to Lake Louise, and has the most spectacular scenery. We just hoped we would have time to see everything as we had to travel on to just beyond Banff for our accommodation.

The Columbian Ice field is a vast collection of glaciers, but one is easily accessible. We first walked to the edge of Athabasca glacier. We did not venture on because of the danger of crevasses. We went to the information centre, during which time the skies cleared and the sun came out. This decided us to take a trip out on to the glacier on a sort of coach with huge wheels. We were taken to the centre of the glacier where the ice is 100 metres thick and there are no crevasses. We got out for a walk round and the sun disappeared and it started to hail. But then we were nearly 8000 feet high. It was extremely cold but quite an experience. I have to admit to some misgivings, as to whether anyone should be going out on the glacier. It is retreating rapidly, and dirt on the surface absorbs the heat and encourages melting. My only excuse is that so many others were going (there was a long queue to book) that we took the one chance we would ever likely to have.

We carried onto Bow Lake, my first sight of a frozen lake. It was beautiful with a backdrop of a glacier and waterfalls. Some lovely reflections of mountains in the water’s edge.

As we travelled the road, a group of cars were stopped. This could mean only one thing. An animal, maybe a bear, had been sighted. It was indeed a bear, my only sighting of one and rather obscured by trees, but I was so pleased to have caught a glimpse. I got used to scanning the roads all the time looking for animals. We saw many elk. In Jasper they roam the streets feeding in the gardens.

Our accommodation just outside Banff was a large two bedroom apartment with full kitchen - much better than a standard hotel room, and cheaper than most hotels.

Lake Louise was our next port of call. The colour is beautiful; a sort of turquoise, though still mostly frozen. We walked around it and the colour seemed to change. We were intrigued to see crystals stacked at the side of the lake. We were also fascinated by the chipmunks playing by the lake.

On the way back we called into Johnson Canyon, but decided only to walk to the lower falls which would take about half an hour, whereas the upper falls were one and a half hours and a harder walk. The path was quite easy to walk, but was overhanging the 63 metre ravine in places. At the end, there was a tunnel in the rock which took you very near to the falls and a drenching.

Our last full day, and we chose to explore Banff. We went to Banff Springs Hotel, on of the large and up-market hotels built when the railways started bringing tourists. We treated ourselves to a coffee; it wasn't a bad price. We then went to downtown. Most of the shops were directed at the tourist and were expensive.

After a picnic by the river, we went to see Banff Hot Springs. Like Jasper they were like an ordinary pool, and were very busy, so we gave them a miss. We also passed on the nearby gondola (cable car) at $24 each we decided not to bother. Very few people were going up, so maybe they should reduce the prices. We visited the cave where the original hot springs were found, but are not now used. They had been very popular in the 1920s when a large pool was built. You could still imagine the elegance of the original place.

The day we flew home, it was only one hour to Calgary, so we decided to go into the centre before going to the airport. Found our way in OK, but were shocked at the price of the car park - $18! The car park turned out to be under a very posh shopping centre. We had come to see two things.

One was the tower, which has a glass floor like the CN Tower - quite disconcerting standing on it. The other was The Devonian Gardens, on the 4th floor of a shopping centre. They are free to enter, with tables and chairs, so that people can walk from the food court to the gardens to eat. They were well worth the visit. There were ponds with very large goldfish, fountains, statues and a profusion of flowers. On each side of the building, plants were layered down to the ground, so that they could be seen from outside: a beautiful peaceful oasis in the city centre. On to the airport for a night flight home. Very little sleep as the tannoy was always blaring forth. On the return journey in England we were caught in the inevitable traffic jam of the M25. Oh, for the wide open spaces of Canadian roads, and the interesting wildlife there.

First published in VISA issues 68-69 (Aug-Oct 2006)