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The
People's Republic
by Glen Strachan Peking has been a long-standing target of ours and, in the dark days that followed the Tien An Men Square massacre, it seemed that Beijing was lost to us for ever. But, in the fast-moving Asian political scene, everything changes. So we found ourselves flying across Russia into probably the most chaotic airport that we have ever seen. The international airport in Bombay was a picture of order by comparison to Beijing but it did give some local colour to our visit from the outset. Our luggage had been lost or mislaid between the entrance to our hotel and our room but we were assured that it would turn up soon. That assurance had been given by the same gentleman who was trying to persuade some of our number that a three hour bus excursion round the streets of Beijing was the best possible way to eliminate the symptoms of jet-lag. Checking the hotel guest list, we came across the fact that there was another lady with the same surname as ours staying here and, by sheer chance, she and her daughter arrived at the same time as we did. The manager was persuaded to take us to her room and our missing luggage was duly located. An early start next day had us walking in the gigantic Tien An Men Square just after daybreak. Despite the mixture of feelings that many of our party had about even being in this place, it was an area with enormous presence, surrounded on all sides by official buildings of major significance. As the morning rush hour began, the striking feature of the wide boulevards that border the square was the number of bicycles that made their way into the city from the dormitory areas of Beijing's suburbs. Part of the reason for the sheer volume of two-wheeler traffic is that there is not really any single commercial area - nor is there a particular set of streets that houses the main shopping malls. Instead of the focus that we are used to seeing in Europe and America, this city is so vast that each different segment has its own major shopping section and the business quarters are well scattered around the rest of the district with factories and workshops spread around the outlying suburbs. Many of the factories have living quarters built very close by and the lack of ground space means that the Chinese stilt build high-rise accommodation at a time when the international trend has been away from such development. The employer is still the main factor in the life of the workers, many of whom have joined the migration to China's major cities from the rural areas that once were the main source of employment. Things are changing quickly in China but even the English speakers whom you meet are fairly reluctant to discuss their situation openly. This is simply the most different place that we have seen on our travels around the world. One obvious reason for the sharp contrast with its Asian neighbours is the Mao years of isolation and, in a world of political correctness, it was interesting to see the rails of fur coats and hats being eagerly snapped up by the young and old. Another eye-catcher was the difference in attitude to the produce on offer in the city's vast food markets and we will never forget the glass display unit full of live snakes. You choose your snake, the stall owner picks it up, hammers a nail through its head and tears out the meat, which he then places in a carrier bag. Most of the purchasers were so keen to eat their 'snake snack' that they simply ripped the bag apart and ate the raw meat on the spot. We passed on that and the hen's feet (best sucked and then gently nibbled, so we were told) before taking a walk through The Forbidden City. Built by the third Ming emperor, the palaces of The Forbidden City were another highlight but the best was still to come. The Summer Palace was a beautiful contrast to the city palaces and the Temple of Heaven was magnificent but our first visit to The Great Wall was almost beyond belief. The temperature in Beijing falls rapidly in early November but we little realised what was in store. Our guide asked us to be ready for an earlier departure than planned as we left the city behind and travelled by bus towards The Wall. We were a few miles away when snow started to fall. The guide explained that the road is closed when the snow starts but, recognising that we were very keen to see The Great Wall, he had set off early. We were on the last bus allowed down the road towards the wall. What a sight awaited us. It was bitterly cold, so we bought hats and ventured onto the Wall where the underfoot conditions were tricky. There were no hand-rails and we saw a number of people pick up injuries as they slipped and fell, but the views from the towers that dot the Wall were amazing. The next part of our visit to China involved a trip over to Xian by plane and that flight was a story in itself, but once again the trip was well worth the effort. The neolithic site at Ban Po was remarkable and the Qin Terracotta Warriors were a sight that we will never forget. Back in Beijing we had a little spare time in the city and a group of us decided to return to the Wall as the snow had gone. The contrast could hardly have been greater as the sun was quite hot and every trace of the blizzard had gone. The Wall presented a new panorama almost as stunning as the first. Even so, our memories will forever be those of the snow-covered mountains on either side - and a sad looking camel trying to find shelter at the height of the blizzard. China will
delight and dismay in varying measure, but it will never bore you - visit
The People's Republic soon if you can. First
published in VISA issue 28 (spring 1998). |