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British Mensa Travel Special Interest Group |
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Greece
in Low Season I was walking around my favourite Greek village. “There was snow on those hills yesterday,” said Lefteri who owns one of my favourite tavernas, waving his hand round the bay. The old familiar faces were there, but instead of the light-weight clothing and sun tanned faces there were warm jackets and fleece hats. I met an old Greek friend, and as usual we hugged, and pecked each other on the cheeks. The poor dear. Her cheeks, usually rosy red, were almost blue with cold. It was February 2004, and my visit to Greece coincided with the heaviest snow in Greece for 100 years. In February 2003 there was very heavy rain in Greece, and I heard on the news that a state of emergency had been declared in many parts of Greece. I tried ringing people I knew and could not get through. I assumed that the phones were out of action - later I found that telephone codes had changed. I asked the tourist office and was told that the situation would be back to normal in May, when the tourist season started. I was flying the next day, in February. I arrived to find Naxos town was as normal, apart from some military vessels in the harbour, bringing in help for storm-hit mountain villages. The heavy rain had caused a lot of landslides, and I suspect that much of the damage was the result of the recent spate of road building. Not all winter
visits to Greece coincide with climatic calamities. In March 2005 the
weather was beautiful, blue skies and warm weather every day. “Like
August,” the locals joked. But not exactly like August, as there
were no strong winds. Even summer has its climatic problems. What do you want from your visit to the Greek islands? Will you find it in low season? I like going to the Greek islands in low season because I like to see Greece without, or with a reduced, tourist veneer. I was going to say that going to Greece in winter is like stepping back to the days before tourism, but that is not entirely true. The tourist places are there, just closed. The advantages of going to Greek islands in low season Apart from peace and quiet, what are the advantages of a low season visit to the Greek islands? In late winter and spring you will see masses of flowers. The types of flowers you see depends on where you are in Greece, and the altitude. A gentle stroll of about a thousand feet down a mule path from a mountain village to the coast is like walking through seasons, plant-wise. In autumn and early to mid winter, before the winter rain has left its mark, you are likely to find the countryside barren. Some islands - the Ionian and Andros come to mind - are wetter and you may find greenery for more of the year. Check the date of Greek Easter and Greek Lent. The Greeks celebrate Carnival in the run-up to Lent. The Monday before Shrove Tuesday is “Clean Monday”, a national holiday, and a day on which kites are traditionally flown. On the final weekend of Carnival you will find many people in fancy dress. On one memorable evening a couple of years ago I was in the only taverna in a small village. There was just a handful of locals playing cards with the taverna owner, and me. Suddenly the door opened, and in came a group of people in fancy dress, singing folk songs and dancing. My first thought was how did those beautiful costumes reach the island; my second thought was for how long has this sort of activity been taking place. In the Plaka area of Athens there is a large fair cum street party on the last Saturday before Lent, which I have been to for the last few years, at the start or end of a holiday. Also look out for the Greek equivalent of Morris Men (Koudounati) in some of the islands. Watch out for Easter festivities. After the evening service on Good Friday there is the parade of Christ’s tomb (epitafios). This may sound rather solemn, but I find the candle-lit procession very moving. People living en route open their doors and windows, and burn incense. Say it quietly, but it is a good chance to be nosy and peer into houses! The evening service on Easter Saturday ends at midnight with rousing cried of “Christ is Risen”. Firecrackers are supposedly illegal, but you may well find that the local youth are unaware of this. Check if any local tavernas are open after the midnight service for a “post-resurrection” supper. The traditional meal after the midnight service is offal soup (mayeritsa) - tastier than it sounds but I would advise not looking too closely at the bits of meat! Especially if you are staying on an island where there is a monastery, check if there are any other Easter festivities. On some islands monks and priests walk icons around the island, followed by a band of locals and in-the-know tourists. These walks are a great way to get to meet local people, and get to places that you would not usually visit. Drawbacks There are drawbacks in going to the Greek islands in winter. There are fewer boats than in the summer, and much of the accommodation and many of the tavernas will be closed. I know that this will not be a problem for me, as I check the ferry times on-line (Greek Travel Pages, see http://www.gtp.gr/). I know that the accommodation I want will be open, and a taverna or two, as I have asked on previous visits. In winter I do take the precaution of ringing my landlord before I arrive - in cold weather I will arrive to find the heating switched on. In the large towns on large islands (e.g. Rhodes, Crete, Corfu) you are not likely to have a problem finding food or accommodation in winter. I would not want to arrive on a small island in winter without knowing that there would be a roof and food for me. On very small islands, the people who provide for tourists in summer may spend the winter elsewhere. Summer buses to beaches will not be running, and there will not be as many buses between villages and towns as in summer. If you were thinking of hiring a motor bike or car, you may find those are not available either! In low season, you will need to make your own entertainment. For me, an evening’s amusement is to linger over a meal in a taverna, watching the sea and the world pass by. Any tips? I would not recommend a trip to Greece in winter to a first time visitor, except to Athens or other places that are active all year. I would recommend going to Greece in mid-season, finding a place you like, and asking about the possibility of visiting in winter. Will there be somewhere to stay? Will there be a taverna open? Will a shop be open? How frequently do boats visit in winter? Remember that boats are not just important for getting you to and from the island. They also take food and other supplies to the island. Guide books will tell you that in peak season ferries are likely to be full and you need to book in advance. But you also need to watch out for Greek public holidays at other times of the year. I arrived in Piraeus early on Saturday morning in March 2005 to find the ferries to Naxos were full. With hindsight, this was not surprising. The following Monday was a Greek public holiday, Clean Monday, the Monday before Shrove Tuesday and Athenians were taking advantage of the glorious weather and fleeing to the islands. The same applies to the return journey. In May I came back from my favourite island on the Saturday after Easter. The Saturday boat is a very fast boat, and the boat was packed. I bought my ticket early in the week, but even then the ticket I bought was a return. Luckily no-one queried if I was really called Dimitri someone or other from somewhere on the Greek mainland. One remarkable feature of that day was that what is normally a quiet harbour was crowded with queues of cars and lorries. Police were turning people who were not travelling away from the harbour area. But I am straying from my low season theme. Another tip - be prepared to be flexible. Have a plan B tucked up your sleeve in case Plan A does not work. And if you come across something unexpected, relax and take advantage of it. On my unexpected day in Athens in March I walked across the National Gardens next to Syntagma Square to the Museum of Cycladic Art. On the way back, completely by chance as I was not expecting to spend a day in Athens and had not done my homework - I came across the ceremony for the inauguration of the new President of Greece. I was not expecting to see dozens of soldiers in ceremonial dress and Greek brass bands, but greatly enjoyed the ceremony. Conclusion Putting this article together has concentrated my mind on why I like my favourite Greek island in winter. I have been visiting the island regularly, often three times a year, for over twenty years. I no longer feel like a tourist, I feel like a part-time resident. One day, I hope to be a longer-term part-time resident. Kalo taxidi! First published in VISA issue 64 (Dec 2005) |