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Does travel do harm or good?
by Helen Krasner

Bernard Colman's comments on travel (VISA issue 24) reminded me of my own views some twenty to thirty years ago. In the late sixties and early seventies, I travelled extensively -overland to India twice by different routes (long before it was an accepted thing to do), all over South America including a trip down a not terribly well known Amazon tributary, North Africa, Europe etc. I hitchhiked, bussed, took third class Indian trains, travelled on canoes through rapids, survived small planes landing on jungle airstrips. I met interesting, friendly, unfriendly and downright dangerous people. I had wonderful and horrible and dangerous and hair-raising and completely boring experiences. All the while, I thought I was doing something important, both for me and for other people. I wound up one day, after a couple of years non-stop on the road, realising I'd had enough. I went home.

I used to think that one learned from travelling the way I did. I realise now that I was the ultimate independent traveller snob, a common enough breed (and growing). Travel snobs look down on the package holiday takers, the people who stay in five star hotels or go for a fortnight in Benidorm or Tenerife. Travel snobs feel the only way is to travel independently - travel rough, meet real locals and have real experiences.This is a narrow and intolerant way of looking at things. Who am I to say that my way is any better than anyone else's ? After all, what was I doing that was so good, so worthy ? The package holiday takers at least give money to the host country. What did I give? Usually as little as possible.

Oh, I liked to say that the people I came into contact with could learn from me, but it was just an excuse. We travellers are full of excuses. We breath a sigh of relief when the Dalai Lama says he welcomes tourists going to Tibet, but ignore Aung San Suu Kyi's request that we stay out of Burma. We make insensitive remarks based on Western values and a lack of understanding.

The package tourist knows that this is what (s)he is and does not try to pretend otherwise, the independent traveller thinks (s)he is something else, something important: a traveller, never a tourist. This pretence falls apart at the first hurdle, the first bit of prejudice we run into, the first rip-off taxi driver or high-handed customs official we meet. This attitude, this arrogance, can actually do harm, often in ways which are not immediately obvious.

I realise these comments will upset many people. Some will protest that they are different and maybe they are - if so, that's great. I hope that they will answer in print, as I feel VISA is missing the kind of intelligent discussion which could improve things, for everyone. Meanwhile, I'm off to Spain in April to stay with friends. Then I'm going to Tibet in May. I don't expect either trip to do a lot of good, or harm, to anyone. I have no illusions anymore and I'm not afraid to say I'm a holidaymaker - a tourist.

First published in VISA issue 25 (summer 1997)