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If you're going to San Francisco...
by Tony Humphreys

With great affection it's known to the locals simply as 'The City', a melting pot of cultures all in pursuit of the America dream. Modern skyscrapers sprout from the shifting ground and below the canopy of glass and steel the remains of a former life pace on by, if only for the tourists' sake. 10 hours from London Heathrow, or Manchester for that matter, lands you into the New York of the West, San Francisco.

Now let's forget the tourist hype for a moment. There is far much more to the city that hosts Alcatraz (the Rock) and the Golden Gate Bridge. Although the latter does takes your breath away as you drive past the toll booths onto the mile wide span, the first 'wow' factor is the truly fantastic geology, possible only to the precarious seismic zone the US west sits on. To the east of the city is the Sierra Nevada and to the West the wide open Pacific, and Hawaii of course.

Travel in the states generally requires a rental car to really experience an American way of life, and San Francisco is no exception. The city has an excellent public transport system, but it is limited to the city. With a car a whole new experience awaits you. From the mountainous drives to the north in Marin County and Napa Valley, through Californian Redwood forests to the southern drive down the Pacific Coast Highway to the seaside. Just an hour's drive away, Santa Cruz is exactly what you expect of California, remarkably just as you see it in the television. The volleyball games on the beach, the gleaming funfair, rollerbladers and lifeguard stations all call childhood memories of those American shows on during holidays, and the sounds of the Beach Boys all around (they are popular on the Radio too). Taking a drive across the Golden Gate to the north lands you in the old fishing village of Sausolito. Now a tourist haunt, the town still retains an old charm, with spotless streets and a host of galleries to wander round and simply take in the ambiance of the rich life so evident in the region. Travelling a little further leads you back to the coast and the rugged, refreshingly cool and misty coastline towards the distant state of Oregon.

A day in the city would not be complete without a visit to the Museum of Modern Art, one of the finest galleries on the west coast, hosting work from all around the world, and famous artists such as surrealist Salvador Dahli, and photographer Ansel Adams. A simple wander around the city is a delight in itself too, from one block to another life changes as you move between a bustling commercial center, to a quiet residential neighbourhood, and back again all in the life of a pretzel.

The flight may be long, but it is worth it to simply visit such a widely known place. It is what we see on the television and in the movies every day, and what we aspire to. And unusually enough it does live up to its reputation, from the golden sands to excellent restaurants and scenery that in most definitely American. Northern California and San Francisco should be high on your wish list, and with flights so cheap, what's stopping you?

First published in VISA issue 51(summer 2003).